The Raptor was somewhat unloved. Great bike, just not wanted. We did a group demo bike ride back in the day with a Raptor, M900ie, 900SSie, 996 and my R1100S I think. The Raptor steered a bit odd - I found getting my weight as far forward as possible helped a lot, as did opening the throttle early. I expect the V-Raptor, with the lower bars and front fairing-ish design, would have been better. It also used a lot less of the front tyre compared to the rear than other bikes. But certainly nice enough for what it was.
Today's bloke was complaining about the "typical" TL1000S 3,000 - 4,000 rpm poor running issue. I suggested he try the TPS baseline we came up with, but he wasn't confident of getting into that sort of thing himself.
Not any sort of official procedure, but we'd been doing TPS baselines for Ducati models for years so it seemed a worthwhile thing to try. I like procedure and repeatability, and this is really the only way to get it. Even if it means they're all bad in the same way, at least then you can start moving forward with some consistancy. The Suzuki ECU in the Raptors didn't have any idle mixture adjustment function, so it was just a matter of manipulating what you had. I believe the Yoshi box could change them, but we never sold enough of the Raptors to make it worthwhile buying one.
From memory (it's a long time since I did any of this, so it's a bit hazy) there was a LCD display on the dash with 3 lines to indicate TPS setting - you'd plug in a diagnostic connector and set the TPS to have the middle line showing with it idling at the desired rpm - I forget what the desired was now. I like things to be more repeatable than that. So, I think we figured out about what the middle line related to in terms of TPS voltage with the throttle blade fully closed on one that ran well, and made it up from there.
Never be afraid to just make shit up, then modify your procedure until it works as hoped.
Procedure was done with the engine not running, back probing the TPS connector with a multimeter to get the voltage reading. We'd generally do it cold, but if it had to be done hot, so be it. The throttle balance set up afterwards was done using the vacuum take offs from the fuel pressure regulator, with all the other vacuum hose guff connected as per normal.
I don't recall if we'd check the idle mixture with the gas analyser now that I think about it. Maybe we did, but as it wasn't anything we could do anything about we didn't bother? Hopefully you'd see 3 to 5% CO - that's where things tend to idle well. But I really don't remember now. Air bleeds were fairly close to full in generally, and winding them out will just lean it out. We may have been closer to idling too high than too low.
Anyway, good luck, and hope it's of use.
Raptor / Navigator TPS Setting Procedure
1. Remove airbox, etc, to allow complete access to throttle bodies.
2. Wind idle adjusting knob on LH side off at least two turns.
3. Disconnect throttle linkage at rear butterfly, taking care to remove the plastic washer and spring.
4. Wind rear cylinder throttle stop screw off to allow butterfly to shut completely. Snap the throttle shut to make sure it can close fully, but have it closed gently with a little push when setting, not jammed.
(This may have a big rubber cap thingy over it going by photos I have found on line of the throttle bodies. It's on the other side of the rear throttle body to the TPS)
5. Adjust TPS to give 1.080 volts between brown/black and grey/orange wires – front and centre. The ignition must be turned on to do this.
6. Mark screws with red paint once tightened.
7. Wind idle stop screw back in to give 1.125 volts between the two wires. This is the idle setting.
8. Reconnect throttle linkage.
9. Wind air bleed screws in full closed and set running balance. Connect vacuum gauges to fuel pressure regulator vacuum ports. Leave fuel pressure regulator vacuum lines open. Remove the other vacuum line coming from the rear throttle body next to the fuel pressure reg take off at the check valve on the left hand side and plug. Keep all other vacuum lines/electrical connectors to the airbox, etc connected.
10. Once running balance is set, set idle balance by winding up the idle stop for the front cylinder using the idle adjustment knob. Be sure not to wind idle adjustment knob too far and open throttles off rear cylinder stop screw. This may not result in correct balance, as close as possible is all that is required.
11. Finish idle balance with air bleeds if required. Idle speed should be correct without needing air bleeds to raise speed.
12. Refit all bits.
5. Adjust TPS to give 1.080 volts between brown/black and grey/orange wires – front and centre. The ignition must be turned on to do this.
6. Mark screws with red paint once tightened.
7. Wind idle stop screw back in to give 1.125 volts between the two wires. This is the idle setting.
8. Reconnect throttle linkage.
9. Wind air bleed screws in full closed and set running balance. Connect vacuum gauges to fuel pressure regulator vacuum ports. Leave fuel pressure regulator vacuum lines open. Remove the other vacuum line coming from the rear throttle body next to the fuel pressure reg take off at the check valve on the left hand side and plug. Keep all other vacuum lines/electrical connectors to the airbox, etc connected.
10. Once running balance is set, set idle balance by winding up the idle stop for the front cylinder using the idle adjustment knob. Be sure not to wind idle adjustment knob too far and open throttles off rear cylinder stop screw. This may not result in correct balance, as close as possible is all that is required.
11. Finish idle balance with air bleeds if required. Idle speed should be correct without needing air bleeds to raise speed.
12. Refit all bits.
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