"Front brake work?" at the top literally meant "does the front brake work? With the second front disc adding a corresponding caliper, the demand for front brake fluid displacement increased by 100%. The original single disc front master cylinder is 13mm, the original dual disc front master is either 15 or 16mm, depending on model. My 851 had a 15mm master originally, which I replaced with a 16mm (from my Sport 1100i after I crashed it I think). I was curious to know how it would work with the 13mm, as I'd never tried it before. My feeling was it would just have a lot of travel and probably some good feel. But the reality was you could pull the lever back into the bars with little discernable increase in pressure. Like it had air in it - I spent ages bleeding it thinking I'd screwed that up somehow. Whereas on the road it gave a lot of travel before it finally started to stop, without a lot of feel as to when it was going to stop. So, curiosity answered, larger front master needed. That was Monday's decision.
The 15mm master is 31% bigger, the 16mm 50% bigger. I went looking for my 15, but couldn't find it. I figured the best way to find it was to buy and fit a new 16mm master (it worked). Because the look for this bike is the "coffin" style masters, I had to buy a new one as the Sport 1100i 16mm now on the 851 is a remote reservoir style. The new one turned out to be the new style with the larger fluid reservoir, meaning the lovely Chinese billet reservoir caps I'd bought the week before didn't fit anymore. Great. And the pivot pin, which is cad pacified (gold zinc) plated on the originals, is now silver and I've spent a heap getting all the fasteners replated so I had to refit the "not so shiny like the rest of the fasteners" original. Hmmmmmm. Did have a nice new lever though.
But, it worked. Funny how a 100% increase in fluid demand is happily dealt with by a 50% increase in delivery. The very cool floating cast iron discs don't like sintered pads, so I went through my stash of old single pin original pads and found a couple of pairs that were bead blasted and fitted. Stops better than it used to with the single disc, but with the organic style pads you just don't get that initial bite that I do enjoy so much. Maybe some new Ferodo Platinums will help. More money.
So that was #1 ticked off the list.
The speed sensor for the Acewell was the next issue. With the caliper adapters there wasn't anywhere to fit a little bracket like I had previously. I liked the little bracket, as it is a serviceable solution (as in you can remove and refit). My mounting as below is not - double sided taping it to the bottom of the fork leg. The sort of thing that customers do that annoys me. I drilled and tapped a thread into the disc carrier and fitted the little magnet and away we went. Easy. Compared to the 120/70-17 circumference of 1860mm, the 130/60-16 measured at 1735mm. But after riding it around with the iPhone zip tied to the handlebar clamp and the speedo app running, I increased the setting to 1760mm (1.5%) to bring the speedo in on the underside of accurate. #2.
The tacho drive is due to this being an SS engine, which has a cable drive tacho. I do have a Monster blanking plug somewhere (at least one in an engine), but laziness had kept me from moving it any closer to this engine. I found a little blue rubber cap that fitted just fine, and it has resisted bailing for quite some time now. But, I figured I'd make it a little nicer and I like machining stuff, so turned up a little cap and screwed it on with an old cable collar (I always cut them off old cables just in case).
The rocker covers were looking a bit crappy, but I didn't have any paint close to hand that I thought might be a good fit. Well, I have some gold that is possibly a good match for the Paso rockers covers that I always liked, but didn't think it'd match the rest of the bike. I didn't want anything bright, but didn't have any shades of real grey so I gave them a coat of cold gal. With the rocker covers bead blasted and heated with the heat gun the cold gal dried at it hit them, the finish is rather matt and coarse and lighter than I expected, but it's there and that gets it ticked off the list.
This engine has the D on the timing belt covers and the DUCATI on the alternator and clutch covers, so I scraped, rubbed and polished the paint off. I thought it was a nice little detail.
I needed a new clutch lever and reservoir cap (to match the new original on the brake master) and the master body had a fair bit of scraping along the road damage near the pivot. I figured the best solution was a complete new master. Easy.
I was looking for something to fashion a brake line bracket from to hold the front brake hose at the lower triple. I usually find old horn mounts are good for this sort of stuff, and I stumbled across a nice gold zinc one. Just lovely. A quick bend and on. Another one down.
At least I know where it is, so now I can lose it again for the next time I want to use it.
To make the inside of the muffler end cap a little less obvious I tried to clean up the inside with some scotchbrite (which didn't work as hoped polish wise), then ran some masking tape around the inside of the outer and the machined end cap. I had machined the end cap prior to giving it to Ken when he made the muffler so I could fit a baffle as used in the last muffler. It didn't make a lot of difference sound wise, so I made another with a smaller and longer internal tube and then folded a piece of sheet metal into a u shape and welded it on. Suitably low rent, and effective I must say. I don't really know if it's that loud, but the high outlet certainly gets into my helmet.
And today at the FOIM, after a lot of them had left. I think it might be finished at this point.
Now I can pull it apart again.